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A Traveler in Tibet
浏览次数:2320次 更新时间:2017-09-01

A Traveler in Tibet

Winter, in Lhasa alone.


 


 


Lahm

I finally arrived Xindu Bridge peacefully. The sky was getting dark, and I hadnt found a place to stay. Friends from Chengdu Car Team helped me, too, but most of the hotels in the Xindu Bridge were closed in the winter. Most of the good hotels there are opened by people from other cities, and they returned home in this season. The sky was totally dark, and I started to panic again.

Suddenly I saw a car with FB-STYLE logo, I was excited and rushed over to ask. The driver and co-driver are two Tibetan sturdy men in Tibetan robe. I asked them whether they are members of FB-STYLE. They probably never heard of FB-STYLE. The car was sold to them by a friend from Chengdu FB-STYLE, and the logo was already in the car. I was disappointed again. When we talked, the backseat window was rolled down, and a Tibetan little girl asked me in standard Mandarin,Mrs, are you here alone? She told me to turn to the other side, and there was a hotel which was open. I followed her instruction, but I didnt find the hotel, I found the little girls home. It turned out that she is the daughter of the owner of the Sky Road Hotel and her name is Lahm.



The hotel of her family is facing the Gongga Mountain. The environment was awesome. Because there was no guest in the winter, so the owner lets the employees have a holiday, the hotel wasnt open. Lahms mother took me in. I was the only guest in the big hotel. We had hot pot together that night. During the conversation, I learned that they were going to buy yak at the foot of the Gongga Mountain. I decided to stay for another day to go to Gongga Mountain with them.

After dinner, I felt altitude sickness, so I returned to my room. The room was cold, but Lahms mother opened the electric blanket before I got in so the bed was warm. I felt nauseous, headache, sick at one oclock in the night. I didnt want to bother Lahms family, so I rushed out of the room and started to vomit. The wind was freezing, and it was several degrees below zero. I was in a thin fleece cloth. My stomach was upset; my hands were on the cold ground to support myself. When I looked up, I could see the starry sky, and I felt small and helpless. The first night in the Tibet taught me a lesson. I returned to my room and took some medicine. I couldnt fall asleep, and I felt better when the sun came out.



The second day morning, I had breakfast which was made by Lahms mother, and we were getting ready to go to Gongga Mountain. I was in a car with Lahm, and her parents and their friends were in an SUV. We had started our journey before the day was bright. Gongga Mountain is the holy mountain in the heart of the Tibetan and also is called the King of Sichuan Mountains because it is the tallest mountain in Sichuan.

We arrived the foot of Gongga Mountain at noon. Lahms parents bought a yak and were going to kill it so they could bring back to Xindu Bridge. Kind Lahm cried when she saw the yak was killed. She didnt talk to her father for a day. She told me that the yak was killed because of her family so she would not eat the meat of the yak. I didnt know how to comfort her. Should I tell her that this is the inevitable cycle in the food chain?

Because of the time, Lahms parents couldnt see the Gongga Mountain closely with me, so they asked Lahms to go to the pass of the mountain with me. The pure, holy, grand image of the mountain is printed in my brain forever.




After I had stayed in Xindu Bridge for two days, I decided to take off. The day I left, Lahm and her mother came to see me off. When I was trying to pay her the coast she wouldnt take the money no matter how. Because she said that I was a relative brought home by Lahm. I didnt know how to repay her kindness, so I gave her a set of clothes of my team. Lahms mother worried that I drove to Tibet alone and told me a lot of matters which needed attention. Before I left, Lahms mother went back home and brought a hada. She put the hada on my neck to wish me to drive safe. With the white hada on my neck, We hugged again tightly. Tears were coming down from my eyes.

 




On the Sky Road

After rested in Lhasa for several days, I continued my trip of driving back through Qinghai-Tibet highway alone in one car. I left Lhasa and drove along the national road G109. After Yangbajing is Damxung and the road ahead was covered by white. It was very different from Sichuan- Tibet Highway. There were snow mountains, grand Kunlun, endless white grassland. All of these would astonish you.

Even though the road was covered by snow, there were groups of believers of Buddhism walking toward Lhasa. The pious pilgrim is one step one kowtow, and they put their body on the snow. Probably this is the power of belief.

When I drove pass Damxung, the snow was getting heavier and heavier. There had been a car accident and jammed for hours before I could continue. I drove along the high way carefully and worried that I would drive away from the main road. Because the snow was heavy and the road condition was bad, I arrived at Naqu County at nine oclock in the night. I checked in the Naqu Hotel. I got up 6 a.m. and started to drive toward Golmud. I passed four high mountains that day—— Nyenchen Tanglha Mountains, Dangala Mountains( the pass of the mountain is 5150 meters above sea level), Fenghuoshan( 4000 meters above sea level) and Kunlun Mountain. I passed three wide rivers—— Chumaer River, Ulan Moron River, and Tongtian River. The average elevation is 4500 meters. I arrived at Lanzhou from Golmud the next day.



 



Driving on the Sky Road, you can see everything. The impacts of the feelings come from everywhere. The mountains covered by snow were standing there still in the snowy plateau. Even watching them from a long distance, you would be moved by the scenery. Thank the construction workers for building this Sky Road for us passers to accomplish our dreams. We will remember them forever for this.

I was unbelievably excited after I saw the Prayer Flags on the pass of the mountain, so I decided to take a photo of myself. I was too lazy to use the tripod, so I set the time and put the camera on the car, then I ran toward the position and posed. I ran back and forth for many times before I took a satisfying photo. It is really difficult to take a photo oneself.

The winter in Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau was quite and white. I felt like there was only silver and white and nothing else.

I didnt use wheels to measure the distance; I used it to measure my perseverance. I told myself that you finished it even though it was difficult. This would become the best fortune in your life. There is no slope you cant reach the top, there is no road you cant finish, and there is no trouble you cant overcome.


 


I love Tibet, not only because of its splendid view. I love this peaceful, relaxing way of living. I feel like living in the Peach Garden, and away from the noise of the world. There is no agitation. The clear eyes, pious belief and the pure kindness of the locals touched me.

I cant forget the pilgrims I saw on the winding road. Their clothes were ragged, and they were doing a pious gesture, walking three steps and kowtowing. I always cry because I am astonished by their steady looks and sad view of their back. Most of the time I drive alone among the mountains. Facing the tall and lonely mountains, I felt small and fragile.

Driving along this line is difficult and lonely. You cant see one car or person for one or two ours. One person drives alone, and the only companions are mountains. You need to prepare yourself for loneliness before you start your journey.




Sho Dun Festival

After I fall in love with photography, every year during Sho Dun Festival or other Tibetan calender culture festival and dharma assemblies I would find reasons to go there. I had taken photos of Sho Dun Festival and other dharma assemblies of Labrang Lamasery, Langmu Temple, Zagana, Aba, Tongren and other counties.

Thousands of monks would gather together; they would carry the colorful embroidery Buddha to the Sho Dun platform near the temple. Then they would compliment the goodness of the Buddha. This is the biggest dhama assembly every year. People can have zero distance contact with the live Buddha. I dont know what I wanted to beg for, but I went there despite difficulties. I just oddly attracted by it.



 

 

The introduction of the author.

Yu Er

Instructor of land rover system who is certificated by the United Kingdom.

The Registered driver of Federation of AutomobileSports of the Peoples Republic of China.

Senior player of FB-STYLE. The author of Ten Years of Cross- Country.

2005, she started her journey alone, she is still on the road.

She said that dream is a trip without the destination.



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