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朝聖之旅 — 敦煌

浏览次数：1426次　更新时间：2021-11-03

編輯楊欣儀

畫家寶松

戶外運動、戶外探險與戶外文化溯源始終是不可分開的，繪畫藝術更是離不開那些大自然的美，萬物生長，雕刻時光。

幾年前，年近古稀的我

去我心中的“聖地”— 敦煌

進行了一次短暫的戶外旅行和虔誠的朝拜

Can not separate outdoor sports and outdoor exploration from finding the origin of outdoor culture. The art of painting has to include the beauty of nature the growing process of life, and it can mark the time.

A few years ago, when I was almost seventy years old, I went to the holy land of my heart, Dunhuang. I had a short outdoor journey and a pious pilgrimage.

敦煌

我小時候就知道有個“神秘的敦煌”。

是那裏有“莫高窟”？再或許是千百年來那裏黃沙中的“鳴沙山”和沒有被風沙掩埋的“月牙泉”？

敦煌之名，很美很魅力。“敦煌”何意？其說不一。

西元前111年（漢武帝元鼎六年）設敦煌郡。

一般認為：《山海經》中的“敦薨”即是敦煌最早的稱謂，而“敦薨（hong）”或是當時古吐火羅人語言對應漢語中敦煌的音譯。另一說認為：古羌人的語言中稱那裏為“朵航”（意為誦經地）。漢人將“朵航”依相對應之音以借用而成為了“敦煌”，取“敦”之大，“煌”之盛也。

總之，不論“敦煌”一名緣起何故，在我心中此名之魅勝於古都西安、洛陽。盛名之下，必有盛地，盛地之中必有盛物，這才實至名歸。敦煌即是如此。

Dunhuang

I had heard of this mysterious Dunhuang when I was little. Is the Mogao Caves there? Is Mingsha Mountains, which is formed by yellow sand from thousands of years ago, there? Is Crescent Lake, which is not covered by sand, there?

The name of Dunhuang is beautiful and charismatic. Why use the name Dunhuang? There are many explanations.

The Dunhuang County was founded in 111 B.C.

Typically people think the earliest name of Dunhuang was Dunhong which comes from The Classic of Mountains and Seas and Dunhong seemed to be the sound of Dunhuang in the ancient Tocharian language. However, there is another explanation that in the language of ancient Qiang people, Dunhuang was called Duohang( means the place where people chant). And the Han nationality transferred Duohuang into Dunhuang. Dun means big, and Huang implies prosperity.

Nevertheless, no matter why it is called Dunhuang, in my mind, it is more attractive than Xi'an and Luoyang. A prosperous name must have abundant land, and a fertile land must have countless things. Dunhuang is a place like this.

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莫高窟

當我懷著激動的心情緩緩步入這被世人稱為“古代藝術的寶藏、現代藝術的源頭”的莫高窟那一個個昏暗的洞窯時，簡直不敢相信，此時的我看到了什麼！

在我面前出現了一尊尊高大輝宏、莊嚴慈悲、神態各異的佛像、菩薩、天女、金剛……他們或威嚴、或慈愛、或怒視、或冥思……

當你置身其間，你會瞬間感到自己的心被深深地感化了！

洞窟的四壁上佈滿手工繪製的壁畫，恍惚中，你仿佛看到了畫中的歌舞伎們那曼妙的身姿和炫麗的舞步；聽到了梵天中鼓磬歡快的旋律、箜篌優美的樂奏和排簫如泣如訴的音韻……

畫面中，佛造相身材高大，面露慈祥。飛天神女們，婀娜多姿，翩翩起舞，升上降下，左飛右旋……

我面對的是一兩千年來多少個朝代、無數藝人工匠的藝術傑作。為此，他們有人或窮盡一生，或散盡家財；或終老敦煌，或客死他鄉。一斧斧、一錘錘地在山崖上生生鑿出了千百個洞窟，一筆筆、一劃劃地在石壁上精心繪製出萬千精美絕倫的壁畫和佛造相。若沒有對藝術的追求，若沒有對美好世界的嚮往，若沒有一代代人前赴後繼，怎麼會創造出如此燦爛、享譽世界的莫高窟寶藏？

歷代藝術家的心血汗水使莫高窟的藝術品有了靈魂、有了生命、有了萬年不朽的精神！因此，敦煌有了與眾不同傲視天下的豪氣！這便是敦煌的魂！

Mogao Caves

When I stepped into the dim caves of the Mogao Caves slowly, which the world calls "the treasure of ancient art and the source of modern art," I couldn't believe what I was seeing!

Statues of tall, glorious, solemn, compassionate Buddha, Bodhisattva, Goddesses, Vajra appeared in front of me. They were either majestic, loving, angry, or meditating......

When you are in the middle of it, you will feel your heart being deeply touched instantly!

The walls of the caves are covered in wall paintings. It feels like you can see the singers and dancers' delicate postures and dazzling dance steps in the paintings and hear the light melody of the drum, elegant music of the Konghou, and the touching rhythm of Paixiao.

In the paintings, the Buddhas' bodies are tall, and their expressions are benevolent. The flying goddesses are graceful, dancing, rising up and down, flying and spinning from left to right.

I saw the artistic masterpieces created by countless artists from many dynasties over one to two thousand years. For this, some of them spent their lives and money and died in Dunhuang, which was not their home. They chiseled out thousands of caves on mountains with axes and hammers and painted exquisite wall paintings, and Buddha figures brush by brush. This brilliant and renowned treasure of Mogao Caves can not be created if the ancestors didn't have the pursue for art, didn't long for a better world, or sacrificed generations after generations.

Generations of artists' blood and sweat put the soul, life, and spirit that will live for thousands of years in the artworks of the Mogao Caves! Therefore, Dunhuang has a distinctive pride that stands out from the rest! This is the soul of Dunhuang!

《莫高窟》（一）

石壁隱處漫黃沙

洞開千座升紫霞

九彩婆娑地清淨

八方樂奏天無暇

佛祖光照煥異象

飛天袖舞散繁花

紅塵遠去入梵境

菩提樹下奏胡笳

《莫高窟》（二）

莫高窟外黃沙鳴

千佛洞內紫氣升

往來行旅皆拜謁

東西香客競誦經

菩薩指路蓮花開

佛陀度厄孽海平

莫道艱辛前路遠

羌笛悠悠伴駝鈴

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鳴沙山、月牙泉

敦煌城南6公里，一座由細沙形成的沙山便是鳴沙山。

“鳴沙山”這個名字好聽且有詩意。不難想像大風起時，風卷著沙礫盤旋而上，橫飛縱掃，沙粒打著沙粒隨風吹過由風削成的沙脊時發出呼哨那般“柔兒柔兒”的聲響。

試想，千百年前，在伸手不見五指的夜中，迷途的行旅會不會感覺這聲音像招魂的鬼？而在月圓如晝的夜晚，那賞月觀雲的行客，用夜光杯品著樓蘭美酒時，若聽到輕風卷起的沙鳴，會不會是另一番完全不同的感受？

鳴沙山的中心最低處有一汪神奇的水潭，形似月牙，故稱月牙泉。為什麼這一汪在沙漠中間的“月牙泉”不會沉入沙下？也沒有被流沙埋住？

依稀記得從前讀過某人的一篇文章介紹說：鳴沙山的沙之所以沒有埋住月牙泉的水，是因為風起時，由於地勢和氣候的原由，風總是由下向上吹，由月牙泉邊將沙吹將開去。所以，鳴沙山的風越吹，沙山越高，而月牙泉的水也沒有被沙埋住，總是靜靜地迎來送往著途經的客人，帶給人旅途中的希望和孤獨中的慰藉。

Mingsha Mountains and Crescent Lake

Mingsha Mountains are formed by fine sand and locates six kilometers south of Dunhuang City.

The name Mingsha Mountains is good and poetic. It is not difficult to imagine that, when the wind blows, the gravels twirl up with the wind, rubbing with each other. The dune ridge formed by the wind makes a soft rattle sound when the wind passes.

Imagine that a thousand years ago, in the night when you can't see your fingers, would the lost travelers feel that the sound is like a ghost that beckons them? How would the travelers feel when they enjoyed the full moon at night while watching the clouds, sipping the wine of Loulan with the luminous cup, then heard the rattle sound of the sand caused by the light wind?

There is a magical lake at the lowest point of the Mingsha Mountains, shaped like a crescent moon, called the Crescent Lake. Why does this Crescent Lake did not sink into the sand nor buried by quicksand in the middle of the desert,

I vaguely remember reading an article that said why the sand of the Mingsha Mountains did not bury the water of the Crescent Lake because when the wind blows, due to the terrain and climate, it always blows upwards. So the sand will be blown away from Crescent Lake. Therefore, the more the wind blows in the Mingsha Mountains, the higher the sand mountains are, and the sand does not bury the water of Crescent Lake. So it always welcomes the guests passing through quietly, bringing hope and comfort to the lonely travelers.

《過鳴沙山》

風卷黃沙山自鳴

羌笛遠去月朦朧

酒後行人尋路去

不聞南飛雁叫聲

《客過月牙泉》（一）

牙泉映月照黃沙

悠悠晚風送胡笳

一壺老酒兩行淚

不知何處是吾家。

《客過月牙泉》（二）

門外西風滾鳴沙

不見泉水映月牙

明朝前去疑無路

若要回頭不識家

陽關

“勸君更盡一杯酒，西出陽關無故人”王維名句，傳唱千年，至今不衰。其中之魅力何在？到了陽關，便有了體會。

陽關之外多羌夷，少繁華；多風沙，少淨水；一片荒蕪。茫茫戈壁無邊際，莽莽黃沙不到頭。

王維與好友此番一別，再聚無期，萬語千言，無法暢敘，再飲一杯，祈君安康。何等傷感！

陽關城早已不存，大漢時的烽燧依然矗立。晚霞血一般的紅光照著沙丘之上已是斑駁鱗鱗的烽燧。你的眼前恍惚浮現出千百年中那烈烈烽煙和場場征戰。

Yang Pass

I urge you to empty another cup of wine. West of the Yang Pass you'll see no more acquaintance. This line of Wang Wei is known by generations and still popular. What's its charm? You will know once you arrive at Yang Pass.

Outside of Yang Pass, mostly were people of Qiang nationality and Yi nationality and not as prosperous as the inside. It was a wasteland with more sand than clean water. The Gobi and yellow sand were endless. Wang Wei bid his friend farewell here, and they didn't know when they would see each other again. There were so many unsaid words, and they could only have another drink and wish each other the best. How doleful it was! Yang Pass city had been long gone, but the beacon towers from the Han Dynasty are still here. The evening glow was as red as blood and shone on the beacon tower, which is no longer new; the warning smokes and wars that happened thousands of years ago seemed to have appeared.

《陽關》

一曲陽關吟千年

狼煙烽火已不見

長河依舊迎落日

鐵騎不再踏祁連

美酒葡萄醉天下

夜光玉杯魅人間

摩詰王維今安在

同賞羌笛唱陽關

玉門關

敦煌西北的玉門關，只剩下黃土夯築的四圍城垣，一個四四方方敦敦厚厚的城牆讓你無法想像當時的雄偉壯觀。

“羌笛何須怨楊柳，春風不度玉門關”的詩句猶在耳邊。

是啊，這裏遠離東邊的大海，東來的暖濕氣流吹到此已再無氣力。這裏缺少雨水的滋潤，成了一望無際的戈壁荒漫。“兔子都不拉屎”的地方指的是不是這裏也未可知。但“玉門”一名頗具特色。

國人自古以來酷愛玉石，並賦予了玉獨特的文化內涵。中國的先人在新石器時期就已經將玉石雕成了各種令人難以置信的藝術品。昆侖山、祁連山又產好玉，漢武帝便在敦煌西北設關收稅，此關便是“玉門關”。

眼下，關隘尚在，硝煙不聞，時過境遷，日月長存。

Yumen Pass

The Yumen Pass is northwest of Dunhuang and only left a four-sided wall of rammed loess, which is so thick that it makes you can't imagine how majesty it was.

"The Qiang Flute, why do you mourn the willow song? Spring breeze can never visit Yumen Pass. "This poem is still vivid.

Yes, this place is far from the east sea coast; the warm and humid airflow from the east no longer has influence when it arrives here. Lacking rainfall has turned here into a vast Gobi desert. It is not known whether the phrase "rabbits do not shit" refers to this place. But the name "Yumen" is quite distinctive.

The Chinese have loved jade since ancient times and have given it a unique cultural connotation. The Chinese ancestors carved jade into incredible artworks during the Neolithic period. The Kunlun Mountains and Qilian Mountains also produce good jade, so the Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty set up a pass northwest of Dunhuang to collect taxes, and this pass is the Yumen Pass.

Right now, the pass is still there, and the warning smoke no longer rises; the time has changed, but the sun and the moon live on.

《玉門感懷》

玉門關城在

雄姿不復存

狼煙羌笛遠

風卷黃沙吟

張騫已往矣

絲路景色新

悠悠千古事

不見季淩君

《憶秦娥·烏雲亂》

烏雲亂，黑風蔽日遮霄漢。遮霄漢，羌笛聲咽，行駝不見。東方初曉朝霞淡，勒馬回首樓蘭斷。樓蘭斷，前路坎坎，黃沙漫漫。